Country Number Four – 13.12.2021

The journey has turned out completely different from how I imagined it a year ago. It did not become a 3,000 km long-distance hike through New Zealand, but instead an incredibly diverse cycling adventure. I have now been on the road for almost two months, covered more than 2,300 km, helped out on a ranch in Croatia for almost three weeks, slept alone in my tent, received incredibly warm hospitality, had amazing encounters, met inspiring people, got completely soaked, froze, sweated, and discovered my body in a whole new way.

Life apparently does not like to be planned. It wants to be lived and experienced.

The last cycling days in Croatia were extremely intense. The weather showed itself from every possible side. So much rain that my rain gear almost completely failed. (I really wonder whether manufacturers actually test their products under real conditions, especially when they boldly advertise H2O Protection on them.) Immediately afterwards came snow—a very pleasant combination: being completely wet and then cycling into increasingly colder regions. Then sunshine that makes you breathe again and reveals the beautiful, dramatic Lord of the Rings-like landscape at its best. Experiencing thunderstorms inside the tent and, finally, the ultimate enemy: the wind. I have never experienced such strong and unpredictable winds as here in Croatia. The wind was so powerful that continuing to cycle was no longer an option. I could no longer control my bike; it ended up lying in the middle of the road, and the only thing possible was pushing. The wind was not only extremely strong but also incredibly cold. So cold that it felt like my fingers were freezing onto the brakes, and when they finally warmed up again, tears came to my eyes. This situation clearly showed me how powerful and mighty nature truly is, and I am very grateful that I am not traveling alone at the moment but have my boyfriend accompanying me.

But these are exactly the kinds of encounters with nature that I was longing for. Truly feeling life, experiencing it fully, and feeling completely alive. That is one of the biggest motivations and driving forces behind this journey.

Croatia really impressed me and fascinated me deeply. In terms of landscape, culture, history, and the people, it has so much to offer.

The landscape is incredibly diverse. There are mountains, coastlines, beaches, valleys, forests, lakes, and the sea. The scenery sometimes changes incredibly quickly and is full of contrasts. You can see the sea while snow-covered mountains rise in the background. Rocky, sandy soil where trees or rather shrubs grow and carry beautiful, colorful leaves (especially in autumn). You simply cannot stop being amazed.

Culturally, the country is fascinating because it has experienced so much throughout its history. Croatian food, as well as the wine, tastes absolutely wonderful, while the local schnapps Rakija is incredibly strong. The people I had the chance to meet are very warm, welcoming, open, down-to-earth, appreciative of life, realistic, and incredibly smart in their way of thinking.

Traveling through Croatia at this time of year is not exactly typical. It is quite cold, often very windy (although if you research beforehand, you know what to expect), and it is the off-season. But that is exactly what I really enjoy, even though it is sometimes difficult to find an open restaurant. Especially when following the coastline, you realize how much of the infrastructure exists solely because of summer tourism. That is why many areas currently look abandoned and neglected, while in summer they are bursting with life. The coastal towns are very similar—many places are closed. But in return, you share the cities with the locals and truly get to experience them because they are not overcrowded with cruise ships and tourists. This made it possible to experience and explore Split during the Christmas season without crowds of people.

For one week now, my boyfriend has joined me on this cycling journey. Experiencing the trip with him is such a wonderful addition. However, after seven weeks of traveling alone, it is also an adjustment for me to start making decisions together again and to share everything that comes with it. Opening myself up to this again is sometimes a real challenge for me. Over the next five weeks, I get the chance to work on that and, above all, enjoy this time together and our shared adventure.