Hasta Luego Chile - 08.04.2022

Sorry that this blog entry has taken so long to arrive. This time, I couldn’t write it in one go. I sat down to write quite a few times, started, and then stopped again after just a few lines. I can’t really explain why, maybe because I first had to process and sort through all the experiences and impressions from Chile. I absolutely loved my time there, and personally, it was incredibly good for me. I experienced so much kindness and nature. Somehow, I was living my dream during that time. But now, back to the entry...

Once again, it is time to say goodbye – to the wonderful, warm-hearted people and to Chile. The time I was able to spend in Chile was unique, intense, and unforgettable for me. Quite unusually for me, I hardly travelled around, but instead stayed in one place for a longer period of time. The Araucaria region, with Lonquimay and Curacautín, really captivated me. There are ancient mystical forests, mountains, volcanoes, rivers, lakes, and lots and lots of horses and cows. Exactly the things I love. I am probably more of a forest-and-mountain person than a beach person.

During this time, I was able to try out and get to know so many new things and different versions of myself. It was incredibly fun. At different times, I was a European tourist, a horseback tour guide, a hiker, a cowgirl, a pirate, a mermaid, a person helping in an emergency, a volunteer, an explorer, and a baker.

The Chilean culture is naturally different from our German one, but not as different as I initially thought. Time schedules are not followed as strictly, which can actually be very relaxing because people don’t take it personally if things happen later. Meal times are different, especially dinner. It happened quite often that cooking only started shortly after 10 p.m. and the food was ready around 11 p.m. Desserts are very, very sweet, and there is a lot of meat and white bread. Barbecue, or grilling, has a completely different meaning here compared to Germany. It is called “asado” and the meat is grilled for several hours. People sit together, everyone who comes is warmly welcomed, whether you know the person or not. There is singing, and the wine bottles people bring are shared. After three or four hours, the meat is cut into small pieces and passed around on a plate or something similar. Everyone takes a small piece with their fingers and passes the plate on. At first, it was very unusual for me that absolutely everything is shared. Asado feels more like a ritual than simply satisfying hunger, as it often is for us. And the meat has a completely different quality and taste. Me gusta.

Since quite a lot happened, I would like to share one or two stories with you.

On a rainy evening, Cristian, Inge, and I were sitting comfortably together having dinner when a neighbour arrived with a young man. They asked Cristian for help because three young people had gotten lost in the mountains that afternoon and could no longer be found. Heavy rain had started around midday and by then it was completely dark. Cristian is one of the few people who knows the forests and mountains around Cañón del Blanco extremely well, so he immediately set off, and I went with him to search for the missing people. Two city police officers with good flashlights also joined us. Equipped with machetes, flashlights, whistles, and a first-aid kit, we entered the dark, rainy forest and climbed up the mountain. The good thing was that we had hiked this route a few weeks earlier, so we knew where we had to go. However, after one and a half hours we had to stop the search because it was too rainy and dark, and we did not want to put ourselves in danger, as there are many steep cliffs in the area.

The next morning, we started searching again in the rain. Unfortunately, they had not been found during the night, and eight out of nine dogs involved in another search operation had been injured. Two men who knew the missing people accompanied us, as well as a local person and a city police officer on horseback. After a long search through rainy bamboo and dense forest, and two holes in my rain trousers, we finally heard voices. We managed to get close enough to a place where we could communicate with the missing people. They told us they were okay, just cold and very hungry. However, we were 20 metres above them and could not find a way down the cliff to reach them. Therefore, a specialised rescue team had to be called in. But our work was done. The sun even came out, and the people were doing okay considering the circumstances.

It is a strange feeling how quickly something like this can happen – getting lost and being completely stranded. The locals never go into the mountains without a walkie-talkie and a machete. On the one hand, because there is no phone network, and on the other hand, to clear paths or defend themselves against pumas if necessary.

The rescue operation was a very formative experience for me, and afterwards I was much more careful during my hikes. But simply being stuck in a bamboo forest and making your own way through it is also an experience in itself.

One of my biggest wishes was to work with horses and experience a different or new perspective on them. And that wish was fulfilled more than once. Already at Carlos’ place, I was able to experience how strong, sure-footed, and fearless horses can be. During my stay with Cristian, I felt this every day again during the guided rides. But I was not only a horseback tour guide, I was also a cowgirl. I had dreamed for such a long time of moving cattle from A to B from horseback. And I can tell you: it is so much fun – at least for me. I think the first day of herding cattle created a rather unusual situation in Chile. Two “gringas” on horses driving cattle alone through a riverbed. Normally, riding, and especially cattle herding, is a men’s job here, so two blonde girls from Europe doing it was quite an unusual sight.

The situation happened because Cristian had no cowboy available to help and we did not have enough horses because we could not find the others. So Cristian asked us to help on horseback. Inge and I only had the experience from the morning when a cowboy had helped move some cows from the mountain forest to the stable. The actual plan was to move the cows from the stable to a new pasture without the cowboy, while Cristian blocked off possible escape routes with the car. The plan itself was not bad, but after 500 metres we had already lost the cows at a bridge, where there was a small gap in the fence leading towards the campsite and the riverbed. So Inge and I had to move the cows through the riverbed to the new forest pasture. This is not exactly easy when you have a herd of 30 cows and have never done anything like this before. Of course, after escaping into the campsite, the group was completely scattered, but we managed to bring the herd back together except for two cows. We then moved them through the riverbed, crossing the water again and again, towards the new pasture. Unfortunately, Inge was a little overwhelmed by the situation, so I had to do most of it alone. But we managed to get to the last river section together, then Cristian took over Inge’s horse and helped me move the cows into the forest.

The next day, only Cristian and I went searching for more cows. We rode up a mountain to get a good overview of the valley. Another goosebump moment: seeing how the horses worked their way up there and then experiencing the view – magical!

I absolutely loved searching for and herding cows. You have to put yourself a little into the mindset of a cow and try to think like one. Where could it be hiding? Where can it find food? When herding, where could it escape? Then you have to be faster with the horse and block that route. Cristian also complimented me, saying that I was really good at it, that I reacted quickly with the horse, wasn’t afraid to ride towards the cows, and could recognise how a cow might behave. He said I was a real cowgirl. What an amazing compliment from a local.

But we didn’t only herd cows; we also gathered free-roaming horses when we needed different or more horses for certain tasks. And herding horses from horseback is completely different from herding cows. It is much more dynamic, faster, and calmer at the same time. But there is nothing quite like galloping alongside a free herd of horses. These animals are simply majestic.

This new experience with horses was more than impressive. Here in Chile, horses are not treated like they often are in Germany – overly protected and seen as a child substitute or sports equipment. Instead, they are seen more as partners or working animals. Much more is expected from them here. My perspective on these animals has definitely expanded through this time.

Now to a completely different situation and experience. I spent my last days in Chile back at Carlos’ place. It was wonderful to see him, his daughter, the area, and the dogs again. We visited a traditional festival, went hiking, and climbing. But what was especially interesting was the journey there.

Actually, everything went according to plan: from Cañón del Blanco with Cristian to Curacautín, lunch with Dalila, then the bus to Lonquimay, the bus to Liucura, and then Carlos was supposed to pick me up by car. But there was no sign of Carlos anywhere. My bus was delayed and only arrived at 9 p.m., one hour late. Hmm, and now what? I had no internet and could not call anyone. It was already dark and the village was tiny. There were only a few trucks and one car with a man inside working on a computer. So he had to have internet. I knocked on his car window and asked if he could create a hotspot for me. At first, he was a little unsure, but I managed to convince him that I needed his help. However, the internet was useless because Carlos had no phone reception. After a while, his wife came to the car, and thanks to Google Translate I was able to explain my situation. Since it was already late and dark, the couple did not feel comfortable driving me to Carlos. But they offered to take me with them, to the man’s parents’ house, and let me sleep there. Since I didn’t know what else I could do, I got into the car. When we arrived at the house, I was welcomed incredibly warmly and immediately given food. They explained my situation to the others and asked if anyone knew Carlos. Two people did and could confirm where he lived. So the family got into the car together and drove me to Carlos’ refuge. How incredibly kind and helpful!

Carlos was extremely surprised and apologised many times for the misunderstanding. He had been in Liucura around 8 p.m., when the bus was actually supposed to arrive, and waited for quite some time, but he never saw me. From a voice message I had sent him saying that Dalila would also arrive a day later, he assumed I would probably come with her. A typical communication and understanding problem.

Thank you to the angels who crossed my path that evening and helped me. It is always incredible how these people appear when you need them. Thank you!

During my time in Chile, I met incredibly interesting, helpful, open, kind, and warm-hearted people. I felt so welcome and comfortable. I made new friendships, not only with people but also with animals, especially with the dog Thor. I experienced new perspectives, incredible nature, and a new culture. During this time, I felt incredibly free. Somehow, I had the feeling that everything was possible there.

Thank you for everything!