Mozambique: Between Saltwater, Freedom and the Art of Managing on Your Own
It is a classic misconception that continues to persist: Africa is often treated as if it were a single country, when in reality it is a vast continent made up of 54 completely different nations. When people think about holidays in Southern Africa, their minds usually go straight to South Africa, Namibia, or Tanzania. But if you look a little further east, you will discover a country that is still considered a true hidden gem: Mozambique. With a coastline stretching over 2,500 kilometres along the Indian Ocean, Mozambique offers an incredible diversity of landscapes. The deep-rooted Portuguese influences in Mozambique can be seen not only in the language (Portuguese is the official language), but also in the architecture and the delicious, often spicy cuisine. Almost everywhere, you can find fresh “Pão”, the typical Portuguese white bread that is sold warm by the roadside in the mornings, as well as fresh fish, seafood, and spicy Peri-Peri sauce. My personal food highlight was definitely Matapa — a traditional dish made with cassava leaves, peanuts, and coconut milk, often served with prawns. It might sound rather simple at first, but it tastes absolutely delicious. The atmosphere in Mozambique is defined by a relaxed, friendly, and easy-going spirit. However, Mozambique is not a polished tourist destination. Away from the popular travel spots, you see the country in its raw and authentic form. You encounter a lot of poverty, simple homes that are difficult for us to imagine in Europe, limited infrastructure, and enormous distances between towns. It is exactly these contrasts that make you stop and reflect again and again. The constant reminder of how privileged your own life actually is, while at the same time being welcomed with such warmth and kindness by the people you meet.
Most journeys begin in Maputo, the capital of the country in the far south of Mozambique. The city is loud, chaotic, and incredibly colourful. It is a place that challenges you immediately while fascinating you at the same time. Here, magnificent Portuguese colonial buildings stand directly next to simple corrugated iron huts, and modern cafés sit alongside busy street markets. In between, the chapas (old minibuses) make their way through the streets. With a slightly larger, but also very old and not exactly well-maintained bus, I was transported to the wonderful destination of Tofo Beach. The journey itself was a little adventure and, looking back, probably much funnier than it felt in the moment. I had actually booked the Cheetah Express, which is supposed to take you reliably and “quickly” from Maputo to Tofo. The only problem was that the company had forgotten to inform me that the departure time had suddenly been moved four hours earlier. Which meant: I missed the shuttle, had to improvise, and spontaneously stayed one extra night in Maputo. The next morning, I continued my journey instead with the local “Fatimas” bus. This bus was truly everything at once: coach, delivery service, post office, and village meeting point. People, bags, packages, food — everything was loaded onto the bus. I was honestly surprised that no chickens or goats joined the journey as well. We stopped what felt like every few metres so that someone could get on, get off, or quickly sell something. The journey ultimately took twelve hours and led us through heavy rain and along roads full of potholes, some of which had been washed away by the floods of the previous months. At times, it felt like we were moving slower than a bicycle. At some point, it even started raining inside the bus, and yet everyone remained surprisingly relaxed while I sat there wondering: Is this really my life right now? Even though the journey was physically exhausting, it was also one of those typical, unfiltered travel moments that you will probably never forget.
There are places that feel different when you are travelling. Not necessarily more spectacular or more beautiful than other places — it is more about the feeling and the atmosphere they create. Tofo Beach in Mozambique is exactly one of those places.
A small coastal town directly on the Indian Ocean, somewhere between backpackers, digital nomads, a fishing village, surfboards, sandy streets, live music, and a laid-back lifestyle. Tofo is located on the coast of Mozambique in the Inhambane Province and has become one of the country’s best-known destinations for divers, surfers, and backpackers. Above all, the underwater world attracts travellers from all over the globe to this small village. The coastline is considered one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks and manta rays, and depending on the season, humpback whales also pass by. At the same time, Tofo is far from being a luxurious, polished beach resort.
The streets are sandy and uneven, water occasionally sprays from broken pipes, power outages happen regularly, sometimes the Wi-Fi works and sometimes it doesn’t — and that is exactly what gives the place its charm. Life here naturally becomes slower, simpler, and more connected to the outdoors.
What I love most about Tofo is the atmosphere when the sun slowly goes down. It is the perfect mix of socialising and complete relaxation: Almost every evening, there is live music somewhere, the beach bars fill up, and you meet people from all over the world. The best part? Everyone sits barefoot in the sand with a drink in their hand, simply enjoying the moment. The whole village has a vibe that feels like absolute freedom. Even though I am travelling alone, I feel completely safe here, even at night. I genuinely enjoy the walk back to my Airbnb — the air is still warm, you can hear the music softly playing somewhere in the distance, and you get the feeling that life here is simply a little less complicated. My daily routine is wonderfully simple. In the morning, the first thing I see is the ocean, and in the evening, I fall asleep to the sound of the waves and music in the background. No perfectly planned sightseeing highlights here, but rather the feeling of truly slowing down, simply being, and living in the moment.
With all this relaxed coastal life around me, I thought: Why not try something new again and learn how to kitesurf? And I had a very specific image in my head: gracefully gliding across the turquoise water as if I had never done anything else. Well… spoiler: That is definitely not what it looked like. For kitesurfing, I went to the nearby Barra Lagoon. The water there is much calmer, shallower, and the wind is more consistent, which makes it basically the perfect place to learn. However, I once again had to realise that I am quite the physical comedy act when it comes to coordination and speed. My instructor calmly explains what I should do, I nod with motivation and am genuinely convinced that I am following the instructions exactly — yet my body somehow decides to do something completely different. As a result, I get launched around rather uncontrollably, with the outcome being a lot of salty water in my eyes and mouth, even though my instructor keeps reminding me to react quickly but gently and always keep my mouth closed. On top of that, there is the general problem of left and right. My instructor clearly enjoyed watching my rather uncoordinated attempts. But: In the end, I actually managed to stand on the board for a few metres. It feels good for me to keep stepping outside my comfort zone and try new things — or sometimes even force myself to do them. I am naturally more of an anxious and cautious person. That is why I keep challenging myself to do things I cannot do. Even if it means not looking good at it and not being perfect.
Of course, I also went diving — if you are already at such a famous spot for underwater experiences, you have to try it. The dive itself was actually really beautiful. I saw many fish and an amazing underwater landscape. The feeling of being underwater simply remains something special. However, once again I realised that I am probably not the kind of diver who needs to go down into the deepest waters. Even getting into the water was already a challenge for me. Falling backwards from the boat into the ocean just feels completely wrong to me. And as soon as I am floating out in the open ocean with nothing but endless depth beneath me, I realise how much respect I have for this enormous, deep sea. Especially when water keeps leaking into the mask and you try to stay calm while your brain repeatedly decides to start panicking. I am probably more the type of diver who enjoys colourful underwater worlds, likes to see the seabed, and feels comfortable with a dive instructor who creates a sense of calm and safety.
Since this coastline is one of the best places in the world to see whale sharks and manta rays, I also went on an ocean safari. This means taking a motorised inflatable boat along the coast to search for whale sharks, manta rays, or dolphins. And usually, the chances of spotting marine life are very high. However, my reality of the safari looked a little different: no animals, maximum seasickness, and 50 euros less in my bank account. But well, that is simply how nature works. It does not adjust itself to my expectations.
And somewhere in between all these experiences, I realise how special — but also how exhausting — travelling alone can sometimes be. Because yes, this freedom is incredibly beautiful. Nobody tells you what to do, you can do whatever you want, decide where you go, how long you stay, and what you want to experience and see. At the same time, it also means that you have to make every decision yourself. Organise everything yourself. Figure everything out on your own. Nobody says: “Come on, let’s just do this.” Nobody brings new ideas when you simply don’t have the energy yourself. And that can sometimes become really exhausting. Then there is also the other side of travelling alone: you experience all these moments by yourself. Sitting alone by the ocean. Watching sunsets alone. Laughing alone about things that happen along the way. And sometimes I truly miss sharing these moments with someone I know and care about. Especially during long journeys, you realise that freedom and loneliness can sometimes be incredibly close to each other.
- Because this topic has been accompanying me for a long time, I actually wrote a separate article about it: “Travelling Alone as a Woman: Between Limitless Freedom and the Honest Challenge.” In it, I go into more detail about what solo travel really feels like, why loneliness and freedom often exist at the same time, and why travelling alone can be incredibly rewarding — but is not always easy. -
Travelling alone as a woman also means repeatedly finding yourself in situations where your intentions are misunderstood by others. You meet so many wonderful people, but at the same time, you also find yourself in situations that can become uncomfortable. Situations where you suddenly realise that friendliness is often mistaken for flirting. That a nice conversation or sharing a laugh is immediately interpreted by some men as an invitation. There have been several moments where I literally had to duck out of a hug because I realised the other person was trying to kiss me. Or situations where I communicated very clearly: “Hey, I’m happy to talk, but please nothing more than that.” And yet, attempts are still made to interpret signals that were never there in the first place. Once, a new female friend immediately noticed that a guy did not simply want to “walk me home” and she quickly drove me home herself. And honestly? Sometimes I really wonder whether men experience these kinds of situations the other way around as well, or whether this is simply an exclusive part of travelling solo as a woman. Despite everything, these experiences are often the moments we learn the most from. About other people, but also about ourselves. About boundaries. About trust. About intuition. And about the fact that travelling alone is not just made up of perfect sunsets and aesthetic Instagram moments. It is often exactly this wild mix of freedom, overwhelm, adventure, loneliness, growth, and absolute chaos.
One more small but important point for anyone planning to travel to Mozambique: Tofo is located in a malaria risk area. Good mosquito repellent, long clothing in the evening, and, depending on your type of travel, malaria prophylaxis should definitely be discussed with a tropical medicine specialist beforehand. And even though the people in Mozambique are incredibly warm and welcoming, you should still be mindful of your valuables, especially at night in larger cities like Maputo, and avoid walking alone through unfamiliar areas unnecessarily.
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