One Month in Bali – What Stays With You When You Stay
How does Bali affect me after one month? In short: Bali has many faces.
To be honest, I was a little skeptical about traveling to Bali again – and then staying here for almost two months. My first Bali experience in 2017 was not the best, which was certainly also influenced by the relationship situation I was in at the time.
Yes, Bali is full of scooters. More than ever. The cities have grown, become louder, and more densely populated. Ubud is, in some places, one big chaos of scooters, cafés, yoga studios, and people from all over the world. And yet, they still exist: these moments, this magic that so many travelers talk about. Mostly away from the hotspots. Not where everyone is, but a few steps to the side.
The landscape is overwhelming. So green that it almost feels unreal. Rice fields, jungle, palm trees, waterfalls. Added to this is the constant soundscape: cicadas, frogs, birds, geckos, prayers from the temples, sudden tropical downpours, and thunder so loud that you have to pause for a moment. Bali is not quiet – but it has a way of calming you down anyway.
What touches me at least as much as the nature are the people. This genuine smile. This kindness does not feel forced. Whether in a warung (a small local restaurant), on the street, or in the middle of nowhere – people see you, greet you, and acknowledge you. It is this combination of nature and humanity that creates this special kind of magic. Do you know that feeling when a moment completely catches you off guard? You look at a view, have a short conversation, or simply stand in the warm rain – and suddenly you have tears in your eyes while also having a huge smile on your face. Everything feels light, without you really knowing why. I experience moments like these here again and again. And then I realize: I am living the dream.
So much for the introduction – and now let’s dive into my time in Bali.
Let’s start with the chapter: Yoga Teacher Training in Ubud.
Yoga Teacher Training in Ubud
I admit it: A part of me almost feels a little embarrassed to say this so openly: Ubud, Yoga Teacher Training, 200 hours – it sounds very much like the cliché of a Western woman in her early thirties. (And yes, I am only speaking for myself and my own feelings here.) Three weeks, boom boom, certificate in hand – and theoretically I could now call myself a yoga teacher if I wanted to.
If you put this stereotype aside for a moment, one thing remains above all: I am incredibly proud of myself for having completed these three intense weeks.
The daily routine during the training was strictly scheduled and anything but relaxed incense-filled yoga. The day started at 07:15 with Pranayama (breathing exercises), followed by a very sweaty 90-minute Vinyasa Flow session. Then finally breakfast – and coffee, desperately needed. At 11:30, Alignment class followed: explaining yoga poses, correcting, practicing. After a healthy lunch, there was a short break before continuing at 15:00 with either Yoga Philosophy or Anatomy class. At 16:45, the final session of the day took place – workshops ranging from Yoga Nidra to handstand training. Afterwards came dinner, and in the evening it was still time for: Self Study.
Impressions from my intensive yoga journey
The days were long, physically demanding, and mentally at least just as challenging. For me, it was also a major challenge to become part of a large group of women again (although there was one man in our group). Since finishing secondary school, I had not been part of such a strong female dynamic anymore. It was unfamiliar, sometimes exhausting, but at the same time incredibly nourishing to be surrounded by so many women again – a complete contrast to my everyday professional life. It was definitely not easy for me: the physical effort, the mental focus, everything being in English, social interaction within a large group – and all of this in tropical heat. Constant sweating, whether I was moving or simply sitting still. On top of that, there was the art of drinking enough, avoiding getting a draft, and keeping my mind reasonably clear. I was able to step outside my comfort zone many times. But that is exactly where we grow, as they say. And yes – I did it. I made new friendships and completed the 200-hour Yoga Teacher Training with certification. (If you are more interested in the training itself, feel free to write to me – I might create a separate blog post about it.)
Between goodbyes, rice fields, and waterfalls
I spent my last days in Ubud with a friend from Germany. It felt incredibly good to see a familiar face and have those comfortable, familiar conversations. We had not seen each other for a year – and a year of depression naturally comes with quite a lot to talk about.
Then it was time to say goodbye again: to my yoga friends, to my German buddy, and to Ubud. Because Penebel was waiting for me – with its vast rice terraces that are part of the UNESCO World Heritage. Penebel is quiet, almost sleepy. The rainy season and low season mean little traffic and hardly any hustle and bustle. Instead, there are wide-open landscapes and rice fields stretching as far as the eye can see. A perfect place for me to dare to ride a scooter again. I was definitely a traffic obstacle here and there – and often had to laugh loudly at myself. Especially when starting the scooter, which gave me a bit of trouble from time to time. How ironic, considering that I used to be professionally responsible for engine starts. A little sense of humor about yourself never hurts.
From Penebel, I continued north to Munduk, towards forests and waterfalls. The air is cooler here (finally I am sleeping better again), the landscape is mountainous and mystical, with low-hanging clouds. Here I finally get the chance to go hiking, and the best part is that in between I get cooled down by the waterfalls. After this waterfall hike, I think I can now officially call myself a waterfall expert :-)
Some waterfalls plunge from great heights into the depths, very narrow but with enormous force and power, creating such strong winds at the bottom that you get completely soaked even without swimming. Others, on the other hand, are very wide and gentle, so you can stand underneath them and receive a free massage. Some are simple, while others are so impressive that they almost don’t surprise you anymore. And then there are those that have a beautiful natural pool, where you can cool off wonderfully and go for a swim.
A small selection from the waterfall tour
Privilege, reality, and reflection
In Munduk, I became truly aware for the first time of how strongly people here depend on tourism. The kindness is genuine – and yet I often sense the hope for work when I am noticed.
For many of us, Bali is a dream destination, a place of longing. For many locals, it is simply their life – and one that is not easy to leave behind. Many earn just enough to survive, but not enough to have true freedom of movement. Through the many encounters and conversations with locals and travelers, I am becoming more and more aware of what a privileged life I lead. I travel as a white European woman with one of the most powerful passports in the world and financial freedom. In the bubble I live in at home, I often forget about this privilege – just as I forget about the safety net and support system in Germany. If my journey fails, I will be caught. I can return at any time. I know there is a system that supports me.
Things like drinking water from the tap, high hygiene standards, or a functioning healthcare system also seem completely normal to us – but for many people around the world, they are not. In Germany, I don’t think twice about whether the food in a restaurant is safe or whether there are certain things I should avoid. At home, I can simply turn on the tap and drink the water. I have a toilet where I can almost sit down comfortably, and running water from the flush tank carries everything away.
Traveling alone as a woman in Bali feels safe to me. People are friendly, respectful, and helpful. Even away from tourist areas, I have not felt uncomfortable so far. Of course, there are people who want to sell something – a clear “no” and a shake of the head are usually enough. And yes, I am traveling with healthy awareness (to reassure my aunts at this point).
Conclusion
Bali is not a place you simply “tick off” your list. It is an island that challenges you while at the same time carrying you. Bali is alive. Loud and quiet at the same time. Colorful, chaotic, and peaceful. Clean and incredibly dirty. Religious, spiritual, touristy – and yet surprisingly authentic at the same time. Everything all at once.
Bali is not a perfect paradise. Bali is full of contradictions, sometimes exhausting, often overwhelming, and maybe that is exactly why it touches me so deeply. Anyone traveling here should be willing to truly engage – with nature, with the people, and also with themselves.
After one month, I realize: This journey is doing me good. It is not always easy, but it is honest. And that is exactly what makes Bali so special.
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